Interesting to see the DR of the cameras in that article (6 stops) In fact his first post on the subject was very basic and he called it "Expose Right" you will find it here. When I need to shoot in the gloom and ISO is a problem (I don't mind even OLY ISO6400) I sometimes expose for medium grey at +1.7EV and take the hit on any highlights that are in-shot. ![]() I rarely need to inspect the blinkies because I find I can be pretty confident that this shot-discipline will work in 85-90% of cases. My Oly (like most digital SLRs) has a much deeper range of darks than highlights and I can almost always recover sufficient detail in under-exposed darks in post to make a good picture. lf they occupy a significant area of the image I might set the exposure to those highlights even when I don't really need/want details in them. There may be some highlights that are blown-out but that's not usually a problem if they're specular. So setting brightest highlights to mid-grey+1.7 EV almost always ensures that the highlights are set at/near the top of the sensor range. The actual mid-grey reading of my camera is typically 2EV below sensor saturation point. If you want the part of the face aimed at the camera to be properly exposed then aim the dome at the camera but expect the side of the face closest to the main light to be overexposed.I assessed the maximum EV range of my OMD EM-1 Mk2 using RawDigger ( ).Īccordingly, I set the EV of my raws to +1.7 for the spot reading (using the AFL/AEL button) of the brightest highlights in which I wish to retain some detail e.g. With lighting somewhere between 45° and 180°, if you want the side of the face closest to the main light properly exposed then aim the dome at the main light. If the main light is outside the 45° cone then where you aim the dome depends on what part of the subject you want properly exposed. As long as the main light source is within a 45° cone centered on the subject it makes no difference - the readings will be the same within 1/3 of a stop,which is roughly the required accuracy for an exposure. One group says always point it at the light source, the other says always point it at the camera. There has always been an argument about where to aim the dome when taking a hand held meter reading. RawDigger - Establishing the in-camera exposure meter calibration point is the way to extract more dynamic range from your camera | RawDigger RawDigger: Raw Image Analyzer | RawDigger If you want to calibrate your hand held meter or your camera meter for RAW then get either of these two pieces of software and follow the RawDigger calibration tutorial. Sailorblue - HA-ETTR An Easier Way To Expose To The Right Using The Camera's Highlight Alert I use my DIY white card to set the ETTR exposure for my camera. Expose properly and something that is 96% white shows details, overexpose it by 1/3 stop and you get pure white - just remember that the exposure for RAW is usually a little greater than the exposure for JPGs. ![]() ![]() The reflectivity of my DIY white card is almost exactly the same as the 96% reflectivity patch of my X-Rite ColorChecker Passport. A few minutes with sandpaper gave it a matte surface. I got a 1/8"x14"x14" one for less than $3 at an art supply store. Instead of a white towel I recommend making a DIY white target from a sheet of white acrylic plastic. RAW files have a greater dynamic range so the right calibration for JPGs may not be the right calibration for RAW images, especially if you want to get the greatest dynamic range out of your RAW images by using the Expose To The Right (ETTR) technique. The procedure given by Chuck Gardner for checking your meter is a good one - for JPGs. Minolta Flash Meter IV Minolta Flash Meter IV Anleitung If you don't have a copy of the manual you can download it here.
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